Spring Cleaning Trends

Spring is a time for rebirth and rejuvenation. It’s time to eliminate any accumulation of dust, stale air, grime, or clutter that can breed bacteria and other contaminants. You can easily freshen up with simple tricks while using a system for pacing yourself to avoid becoming overwhelmed. Here are some tips for tidying up and deep cleaning your home as springtime approaches.

When you don’t know where to start, think of spring cleaning as a series of phases. The first phase should be to downsize or declutter, the next to surface clean, and finally, to deep clean. Within those phases, you should begin by creating a checklist. Start by going from room to room to see which areas need the most decluttering and last cleaned a while ago. Then start with the following:

Organize storage spaces—Sort what you will keep, discard, and donate into three piles. Categorize the items you will keep into bins, label them, and place them on shelves along the wall to maximize floor space. Reuse old plates and bowls to store small items such as buttons, cords, and stamps. Add a non-slip liner to drawers and cabinets to keep everything in place. Rotate old items to the front and remove packaging. Toss used and expired items from the kitchen and bathroom.

Clean higher areas first—Areas like ceilings, ceiling fans, light fixtures, and upper walls need to be vacuumed, polished, or dusted first because of the loose dirt and grime that will end up on the floor. Use a Swiffer or extendable duster and clean before you do the floors to avoid cleaning the bottom half a second time.

Surface clean—Before you begin scrubbing, it’s important to remove superficial dirt and dust from areas exposed to the elements, such as windows and patio furniture. Brush off or vacuum before you spray with a disinfectant or all-purpose cleaner. For windows, use a soft microfiber cloth to prevent streaking. Clean your windows and blinds on a cloudy day to avoid the sun drying up the cleaner quicker than you can wipe it down. Slower drying will prevent streaks. Vacuum soft furniture crevices with the upholstery attachment of your vacuum cleaner. Remove the fuzz from your dryer’s lint catcher each time you dry a load of clothing, and have a serviceman periodically clean your exhaust hose to protect against fire hazards.

Deep clean—Large appliances, rugs, cabinetry, and other furnishings are typical areas to target for spring cleaning because they are usually not on your daily or weekly radar for cleaning. Before you begin, consider one room and appliance at a time, then any small parts. Appliances such as your refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave, and stove tend to accumulate stubborn food remnants, crumbs, stains, and other debris. Although you may use a harsh chemical cleaner for heavier grime, like on your stove, it is cheaper and healthier to use mild household items to clean, such as dish detergent, vinegar, baking soda, and lemon in paste form or diluted in warm water. For instance, you can use lemon rinds and cold water to flush out your garbage disposal for 15-30 seconds. You can steam clean your microwave with a bowl of hot water and vinegar or lemon. Once it cools, wipe it down. Disinfect your dishwasher by running the rinse cycle with vinegar and baking soda. Remove hard water buildup on shower heads by immersing it in a bag of hot water and vinegar, then scrub clean. Don’t want to move your heavy stove again to clean behind it? Use a stove gap cover to keep crumbs out of hard-to-reach places.

Laundering—Save yourself time and labor when it comes to intensive cleaning for such articles as your window and shower curtains, drapes, area rugs, comforters, pillows, and reusable grocery bags. Your washer will allow quicker and easier sanitization and elimination of dust mites and other airborne pathogens. Check the manufacturer’s cleaning instructions before you machine wash.

Clean areas that can cause odors—Your sinks, toilet, and trash cans are bacterial havens that emit rancid smells after being overlooked. Remove musty odors from carpets by using baking soda or carpet deodorizer. Use one of the mentioned mild household cleaners or all-purpose disinfectants and mix with warm water to allow to sit until sanitized before rinsing. Investing in a carpet cleaning appliance with a rotating brush may be wise.

Lighter cleaning treatment—Use a special polish and carefully follow directions for cleaning silverware and granite countertops. Season cast-iron pans as needed and wipe down small appliances, such as knife blocks which can get splattered during cooking. Make sure that paint surfaces and wallpaper are washable before you clean or consider using stain-resistant paints.

Spring is a welcoming season for many of us, but the cleaning required after winter’s dormancy can be taxing and time-consuming. You can save unnecessary toil by practicing these time-saving tricks and pacing yourself through the cleaning phases with manageable checklists.

 

How to Prevent Household and Yard Pests

Wildlife such as raccoons, squirrels, bats, and birds are part of nature and can be wonderful to observe. However, they can be troublesome and threaten our health and safety when these creatures invade our property and home. Unwelcome vermin can spread disease, cause structural damage, and inflict bodily injury to humans and pets. Here are some signs that you may have wildlife inhabitants and helpful tips to avoid infestation.

Check for Signs of Infestation—General indications are fecal droppings, odor, holes, tunneling, nests, odd sounds, and gnawed or pecked at siding, flooring, walls, and roofing. Signs of specific wildlife will help you target a particular species to eliminate. For instance, five-toed paw tracks, barks, growls, shuffling, bent rain gutters, and chewed-up wiring could be a sign of raccoons, while stains on the ceiling and squeaking sounds could mean the infestation of bats. Damage to your garden, bird feeder, and insulation may indicate that squirrels are your problem. If you hear scratching sounds in the walls and ceilings, see tracks, and notice that food has been gotten into, that could be mice. Birds are another common home invader. You could have a trapped bird or two if you hear scratching and shuffling of wings. Holes in the roof and nesting materials are other signs that you have a feathered housemate.

Seal openings—Holes and crevices in your attic, floorboards, ceiling, roof, and other areas of your home are an open invitation for pests to invade and make their nests. Identify any openings and shut or seal them off. For example, install chimney caps and steel screens on vents. Use silicon caulk or cement to discourage other vermin that can gnaw through plastic, rubber, vinyl, or wood. The best time to do this is in the fall or winter after some species of animals have left the nest or to anticipate creatures looking for a warm haven to escape to.

Manage garbage disposal—Deter animals from getting into your trash by keeping cans indoors or tightly securing lids. Avoid spilled food scraps that can attract wild animals.

Trim tree limbs—Discourage climbing by regularly cutting back large branches and tall brush.

Ensure cleanliness inside and out—Declutter areas of your home that tend to amass the most trash, such as your garage or attic. Eliminate newspapers, empty boxes, piles of wood, and other materials that animals can use to build their nests. Mop, sweep, and vacuum regularly. Wash your pet’s bedding often to avoid fleas and fix leaky pipes to prevent insects drawn to excessive moisture build-up, such as ants. Infected linens and other materials should be washed or discarded.

When all else fails and you are already facing an infestation problem, it’s always important to practice safety and seek professional intervention. Pesticides should only be used as a last resort. Use safe methods such as non-toxic bait and friendly traps to capture and release. Protecting humans, beneficial plants and insects, and non-threatening animals from accidental poisoning are important. Protecting the air, water, and soil from toxicity is equally essential. Call on an exterminator or animal control expert if the problem is beyond your scope of knowledge to control. They have the expertise and proper products to identify entry points and safely dispose of dangerous and disease-breeding wildlife. In addition, they can schedule follow-up visits and offer solutions to prevent further outbreaks.

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Foundation Cracks

Due to shifting soil, water issues, and normal settlement, most foundations will crack. There are different kinds of foundational cracks and varying causes. Once you understand the type of cracks you have and the underlying cause, you’ll be better able to repair them to protect your home.

There are two basic types of foundational cracks. They are horizontal and vertical cracks that differ in causes and severity.

Vertical Cracks—These run up and down your foundation. An example of one is a hairline crack. Vertical cracks are often small and don’t require professional help. If there are only a few cracks and they don’t get longer or wider over time, they can be patched to reduce the potential for moisture or infestation.

Horizontal Cracks—Unlike vertical cracks, horizontal cracks, which run across your foundation or walls, can be more serious. These are caused by different sources of pressure, such as water and soil, which can severely impact the structural integrity of your home. They can also be due to poor workmanship when contractors fail to grade the property properly before construction.

To get an idea of the severity of either a vertical or horizontal crack, you can test it with a dime. If you can fit one into the crack the damage is large enough to require repair. If small, it should be monitored over time to see if gets worse and then addressed accordingly. It’s easier to fill small cracks, and it is best to stay on top of them before they become vulnerable to bugs, water, mold, and other infestations.

Generally, any horizontal crack should be evaluated by a licensed home inspector or engineer to assess the underlying cause, and if the cracking has caused any other structural concerns.

 

Easy Instructions for Kitchen Cabinet Painting

Now that it is nearing spring, you may be considering refreshing the look of your kitchen. Your cabinets tend to get shabby, worn, and stained from constant cooking splatter and food odors. For a new look, you can replace them, but in considering cost, painting them is a cheaper option to add new life to your cabinetry while getting creative at the same time. It will depend on your kitchen size, but the paint and supplies cost usually averages about $200. If this is your first time painting your cabinets, here are some steps to consider before tackling this project.

Check that your cabinets are paintable—Wood, wood laminate, and metal usually can be repainted, but plastic laminate may require a special paint. Check with a paint dealer by bringing a door sample or test a hidden patch to ensure it will adhere correctly. Panels and other architectural details and damaged joints may need special care. You may have to purchase new parts or use a special painting technique such as spraying, rolling, or brushing with different-sized or textured brushes.

Decide on Latex or oil-based paint—If you are looking for quick-drying and easy-to-clean paint, Latex is your best selection. However, you may find oil-based paint more advantageous even though it is more expensive. Oil paint is more durable, yields a smoother finish, and is stain resistant. If you opt for latex paint, choose one with 100 percent acrylic formation for greater adhesion.

Kinds of paint application—You’ll need to decide if you’d rather spray or brush as per your budget and ability. You may need to rent a spray machine for accuracy and less mess, but it will bring your cost up. Brushing is more time-consuming, but this is a better choice if you’d prefer to take your time with the details. You’ll need both a flat and angled brush; natural bristles for oil-based paint and synthetic bristles for latex paint.

Preparation—You want to protect your surrounding items from paint residue in any painting task. Start by removing all contents from your cabinets. Cover your counters, appliances, and surrounding fixtures with a plastic tarp and affix firmly with tape. If the cabinet door needs to be detached to paint, create an area for items to hang or lay afterward to dry. If you have to dismantle doors, organize hinges, screws, and other hardware into a bag and label the area they belong to help you reattach them correctly. Scrub your soiled hardware with warm water and dish soap. Wipe off any grease or residue and completely dry before you paint. Sand as needed to remove the old finish and wipe or vacuum residual dust afterward. Instead of sanding, you can use a primer-sealer that helps the finish coat bond properly.

Applying the paint—Start with the most critical areas you’ll need more time with. Paint the inside edges and openings of the face frames first before you do the outer sides. Lastly, paint the face frame fronts. Be careful when painting wood pieces or molding that extra paint does not dry in the corners and crevices. Apply thin, light strokes and dry between coats for at least four hours. Two coats are usually sufficient, but you may want to apply a third for extra protection from everyday wear.

You can easily renew and refresh the look of your kitchen without replacing cabinet doors and other hardware. Painting your cabinets, provided you prepare with the proper paint and tools, will give you a cost-friendly option to try new colors and test out your creative flair. At the same time, you will extend the life and durability of your cabinetry to help it endure for more years to come.

 

Roof Exposure and why it matters

The direction the front of your home faces will determine the amount of sunlight it receives which has an impact on many elements of your home. There are four types of exposures: Southern, Northern, Eastern, and Western. One is not necessarily better than the other but there are advantages and disadvantages to all.

Southern exposure—When your home faces south, you will experience direct sunlight throughout the day. For sun lovers and green thumbs, this is the most favored because you get the most natural light during the day, and with extra warmth, you can save on your heating bills in the winter. However, concentrated sunlight can damage siding, roofing, furniture, fabrics, and flooring. You will need to pay closer attention to regular maintenance such as repainting, residing, and UV protection.

Northern exposure—A home that faces the north will have indirect sunlight. This exposure is preferred for those who don’t like intense sunlight because the light is softer and less harsh. In addition, the home will be easier to keep cool in hot weather. Conversely, winter snow and ice can be challenging because there is less sun to allow for quicker melting. Hence, the snow and ice weight can be very stressful on your roof. In addition, you have to keep walkways continually cleared to avoid falls.

Eastern and western exposure—When your home faces the east or the west, you will have more sun either earlier or later in the day. For the east, you will experience the most sunlight in the morning, but if facing the west, you will have more sun exposure later in the afternoon. Early morning risers may feel more comfortable with eastern exposure, while those who prefer late-day sun would do better with western exposure. You will need to install shading to windows facing east and west to eliminate the glare and UV damage of morning or afternoon sun.

While most people won’t buy or not buy a home based on the home’s exposure it is important to consider the effect the different exposures will have on wear and tear of the home as well as incoming natural light.